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Since then, Jean-Marie Meulien has worked in the Meridien Etoile of Paris, a giant hotel with about a thousand rooms, hordes of restaurants for every taste and a small jazz-club worth a visit. Guests that would like to find him here should be experienced boy-scouts - even if the orientation in "Le Meridien" isn't quite easy, they will land after some searching in a great anonymous salle with a view on the garden, which proves the bad taste of the architectes by a monstruous fresco of a horse. But don't loose your appetite, you'll need it.
The menu is an exciting marriage of classical France with India and Asia. For once, there's no boredom in a hotel-restaurant: artichoke and cuisses de grenouilles a la bergamote, crevettes aux herbes thai, steak de canard aux moules et algues (a steak of duckling with mussels and algas - sounds horrible, but tastes interesting) and agneau auc herbes "Tandoor". These kinds of experiments could be a disaster for an unexperienced cook, but "Grandmaster" Meulien controls even the slightest nuances of flavour. Thanks to such cooking, you almost feel in the anonymous Meridien Hotel, like in the great days of L'Oasis. P:S.: A great "Bravo" to the fine wine-list of Sommelier Didier Bureau - a real who-is-who of the best bottles. Le Clos Longchamp (Meridien Etoile), 216, boulevard Pereire, 75017 Paris, Tel.: 40 68 00 70
Return to Jorg Zipprick's Culinary Journal
Updated 05/95