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Washington Basics

Likeable, liveable Seattle, the commercial and cultural capital of the state of Washington, has become one of the most fashionable destinations in the United States. The appeal of its fine Pacific Coast setting is compounded by the excellence of its restaurants, the vitality of its nightlife, and its flourishing performing arts scene (as exemplified by the international fame of its locally grown grunge bands). All this from humble and comparatively recent origins: Seattle's first hesitant economic steps, in the 1850s, were based on the export of timber, shuttled down the coast to the burgeoning cities of California. Other primary products, especially fish, played a supporting role, and together they formed the foundations of Western Washington's first industrial boom. Nowadays the region is sustained by the latter-day high-tech companies and an ongoing economic and cultural reorientation towards the Pacific Rim.

West of Seattle, across Puget Sound, is the region's other star turn, the Olympic Peninsula, where inaccessible, glacier-draped mountains poke up high above dense temperate rainforests, all fringed by the wild, rocky and remote Pacific Coast. Seattle is also the hub of a ferry system that offers glorious rides to the wood-clad hills and rolling farmland of the islands and peninsulas that pepper the sea as it stretches north towards Canada. This beautiful area is at its most beguiling among the San Juan Islands, a cluttered archipelago incorporating the lovely state parks of Orcas and the tranquil charm of Lopez Island.

Throughout Western Washington, vast forests shelter all kinds of wildlife, remote islands scatter the sea, driftwood-strewn beaches are unchanged since the Native Americans used them to launch whaling canoes; and, edging the region to the east, the Cascade Mountains provide a snow-capped backdrop. Despite the sunny-side-up claims of the tourist authorities, the climate is very wet for most of the year, with just a brief respite in July and August. Don't let this put you off, though: even seen through a haze of fine grey drizzle, the scenery is incredibly beautiful, and you should try to tackle at least a few hiking trails (well laid-out, easy to follow and available in manageably short versions). Otherwise Washington's great, green outdoors with its vast expanses of trees can just make you feel very small indeed.

The remoteness of much of the region means that you'll need a car (or bike, if you've got strong legs) to get to some of the most enticing parts, though the ferries will carry you around the waterways, and Greyhound provides useful links between the main towns (Amtrak only serves the larger cities). Limited local bus services extend the network.

The phone number for the Washington State Tourism Development Division is 1-800/544-1800.

The telephone code for Seattle and Western Washington is 206.

Western Washington Ferries

The network of subsidized routes operated by Washington State Ferries provides a wonderful way to explore the islands and peninsulas of the Puget Sound and points north to the Canadian border. Even with a vehicle, costs aren't too steep, while bicycles are taken on board for a minimal fee. In many cases, fares are collected in just one direction (usually westbound) and the return trip is "free". However, drivers can't make advance reservations, so it's a good idea (especially in summer) to reach the ferry port a couple of hours before departure. Timetables and fare details are available at every ferry dock, including Seattle's Pier 52, or you can call 1-800/84 FERRY (statewide), or 464-6400 (in Seattle).

The two most popular and useful services are the one between Port Townsend, on the Olympic Peninsula, and Whidbey Island's Keystone (every 45min; 30min), and another that leaves mainland Anacortes, about 90 miles north of Seattle, every one or two hours for the San Juan archipelago, docking at Lopez (after1hr), Orcas (1hr 30min), and San Juan Island (2hr 10min). The round-trip fare for vehicle and driver in peak season is just $20. Two of the daily San Juan ferries from Anacortes in summer, and one in winter, continue to Sidney, Canada. An average-sized vehicle, along with the driver, costs around $30 each way, extra adult passengers $6 each.

No car and passenger ferry services operate to Canada from Seattle, but the high-speed, passenger-only Victoria Clipper from the city's Pier 69 (summer 3-4 daily, winter 1 daily; 448-5000 or 1-800/888-2535) takes just two and a half hours to reach Victoria, on Vancouver Island. Fares are $49 one-way, $79 round-trip.

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